We’re continuing to talk trends here at Calik Denim. And while forecasting future trends is a feat in itself, it’s just as important to look at past and historical trends in order to gain a deeper insight into today’s denim industry. So if you haven’t already read our introduction to trends and our heritage denim spotlight, go ahead and check those out. But this time, we’re going to be examining a trend which is doing more than just gaining temporary traction, it’s becoming a mainstay of the wider fashion industry in 2020 and beyond. It’s a given that denim is a hard wearing fabric that has its origins in workwear, but like any fabric, it eventually wears out. And given the rugged properties of denim, we tend to wear our jeans harder than the alternatives. Ever ripped your favourite pair, but just can’t bring yourself to give them up? You’re not alone. And in the last decade, repairing, re-purposing and re- creating has been a hot trend in the world of denim. Whether it’s a simple patch on some 501s to prolong their life, or developing an entire collection out of existing fabrics rather than produce anything new, we’re making do with what we’ve got. And it’s clear that this is more an issue of principle and consciousness, of responsibility and sustainability. But before we talk more about the brands and people transforming today’s fashion traditions, it’s necessary to look at the history of re-pairing and re-purposing through the ages, as this is far from a new phenomenon. As Maurizio Donadi states (Co-Founder and Creative Lead at Atelier & Repairs) “repairing has been a natural part of any country’s history” for centuries. Arguably, it’s only more recently with the advent of fast fashion and throwaway culture that we’ve seen such a carefree attitude to waste and accepting quantity over quality. Re-pairing, re-purposing and re-creating from existing garments has been around for longer than fashion itself and was often done for practical, utilitarian and cost saving reasons. Take a look at historic Japan, where it was a popular practice to mend, patch and repair. Referred to as ‘Boro’ which derives from the Japanese boroboro according to the Victoria & Albert Museum, meaning something tattered or repaired, the practice was based on repairing existing textiles or garments with other fabrics. This was commonly seen on work garments, kimonos and large pieces of fabric which were used as bedding. Boro was often reinforced with ‘sashiko’ running stitches which further reinforced and extended the life of the fabric. A work of art in itself, the V&A state that the historical spirit of boro “informs the contemporary trend for ‘distressed’ or repaired-looking clothes”. So much so that brands like FDMTL and Kapital lean heavily on the age-old practice for their latest collections. Another historical reference point can be found during wartime. In Great Britain, the phrase ‘Make do and Mend’ was popular during the war years of the 1940’s - a period when times were tough and resources couldn’t be wasted. As a result of rationing and wartime economy, materials were scarce and many households had to repair the clothing they had or re-purpose fabrics for other uses. The British Ministry of Information even issued a pamphlet of the same name, which was intended to provide families with “thrifty design ideas and advice on re-using old clothing” according to the British Library. An indispensable guide for the wartime household, “readers were advised to create pretty ‘decorative patches’ to cover holes in worn garments; unpick old jumpers to re-knit chic alternatives; turn mens’s clothings in women’s; as well as darn, alter and protect against the ‘moth menace’”. Confirming the sound principles of Make Do and Mend, the pamphlet was recently re-released during a time of economic recession, advising the reader to adopt the same frugal approach to recycling, re-purposing and re-creating. Later in the Twentieth Century many sub-cultures and underground movements adopted similar principles; take Punk for example. While Malcolm McClaren and Vivienne Westwood’s initial collections were tattered, torn and held together by safety pins, there were clear design cues which emphasized a gritty yet personal patchwork approach. Punk wasn’t a movement which was high class or emblazoned with wealth, it was street and it was dirty. It was common to see bands and fans wearing old jeans which were patched or repaired and military jackets which had been customized by their owner. The reasons for this were not only image driven and the desire to stand out, but also for cost and accessibility. Punk became driven by a uniform - as with many other musical sub-cultures - and its very principles aligned to the practice of making the best with what you had. Fast forward thirty years and brands like Ralph Lauren sourced inspiration from these historical reference points, bringing the essence of repair, re-purpose and re-create to the runway. But at this time, it was a very intentional design direction rather than a look born from necessity. While these garments undoubtedly achieved the ‘look’, they lacked substance and honesty. However, for Ralph’s nephew, Greg Lauren - who started his namesake brand in 2011 - using repurposed garments had always been a part of his design DNA. Lauren took this even further with his FW20 collection which was made entirely from fabric scraps. Another brand which is paving the way for the industry is Donadi’s Atelier & Repairs, whose approach of ‘waste less, reimagine more’ is heavily rooted in reducing environmental impact and utilizing the resources we already have, rather than adding to them. Donadi states “our source of inspiration comes from the idea of transforming rather than producing”, a viewpoint that’s clearly visible in the brand’s up-cycled military jackets and re-worked vintage jeans. The trend of re-pairing, re-purposing and re-creating has even been adopted by Levi’s, who took things a step further with their recent collaboration with Ganni. Entitled ‘Love Letter’, the collection was for rental-only and featured up-cycled denim garments from vintage Levi’s 501s. Building on Ganni’s existing ‘Ganni Repeat’ rental service, each item from the collaboration is shipped using re-usable materials, is thoroughly cleaned and stored for 72 hours before becoming available to rent again, according to Vogue. While not everyone might want to rent their denims, the concept marks a significant change in direction for the denim industry. Many smaller independent brands are also providing the blueprint for this trend to become a mainstay within the industry. With an emphasis on craft and handmade, brands like Toronto’s Bentgableknits - who recently collaborated with workwear giant Carhartt and London’s Selfridges - make their mark by embellishing and customizing vintage garments to give them a distinctly contemporary edge and streetwear feel. Classed as ‘re-worked vintage’ they are evidence of a larger movement of independent makers who are trying their hands at handmade. In an era where the impact of climate change has never been greater and more visible, it seems likely that this trend is here to stay. With brands continually looking to innovate, enhance their sustainability efforts and lessen their environmental impact, the best pair of jeans may just be one that already exists… Image credit: Leung-Kit / Kelly Harrington