The five pocket jean is undoubtedly the giant of the denim world. It’s undeniable. Its humble origins and rise to stardom are unmatched by any garment the world over. From its workwear beginnings to celebrity endorsements, the five pocket jean is a true icon. Similarly, the denim jacket - or the ‘trucker jacket’ as its often referred to - has had an equally storied history and become a cornerstone of the modern wardrobe. But today we’re going to talk about a garment which has had just as great of an impact but goes surprisingly under the radar in comparison to its jean and jacket counterparts. With parallel workwear origins, this garment has become a universal image of comfort and street style, as well as a rugged and classic piece of clothing. Worn by miners in the 1890s and rappers in the 1990s - and almost everyone in between - dungarees walk the line of fashion vs function perfectly. In the following narrative we’re going to look at the key characteristics of dungarees, their origin and evolution, as well as some staple styles. So, buckle up! While the heritage obsessed and workwear revivalists amongst us might associate dungarees with Nineteenth Century America - think Gold Rush, the birth of the blue jean, the industrialization of the USA - their origins can actually be found half way across the globe in India. According to vintage clothing specialists and retailers Beyond Retro, dungarees were first cited in the Seventeenth Century where a fabric known as ‘Dungri’ was used for making cheap and rugged work clothing. Named after the Indian village where the fabric was made, this was later adapted by the British to ‘dungaree’ when they purchased the same cloth to make work clothing. Fast forward to the 1850s and it is here that we can see the first bib and trouser ‘overalls’ (also referred to as ‘bib and brace’ by some) made out of a dungaree fabric. Coinciding with the migration of settlers to the west of the USA and the search for gold, dungarees became the ideal uniform for workers and laborers. The bib and trousers offered ample protection against the elements or harsh working conditions, while design details like chest pockets and hammer loops allowed all the necessary tools to be carried on the job. Dungarees were intentionally basic in their design with a straight ‘up and down’ silhouette. With a ‘one size fits most’ model of production, they featured a wide straight leg which often came in one length, a hidden button fly, side buttons to secure the garment across the chest and adjustable suspenders to cater for all manner of body heights. With rear patch pockets, front chest pockets and tool pockets on each leg, practicality was the name of the game. Brands like Levi Strauss & Co., Sweet Orr and Underhill provided workers with all manner of dungarees in numerous fabrics ranging from a traditional indigo denim to hickory stripe and wabash. During the 1920’s, dungarees continued to have their share of the limelight when ‘Overalls Clubs’ were formed across the USA, as a response to the rising cost of clothing and profiteering in the garment industry. Less than a decade later, with the onset of the Great depression, dungarees continued to be worn by the working classes and the poorest segments of American society. But following the Second World War, they made a surprising shift into popular culture via the silver screen. This exposure and perhaps unintended endorsement would mark the first instance of when dungarees were not only a utilitarian piece of workwear, but something that looked ‘cool’. Worn by the likes of James Dean, John Wayne and Judy Garland, this shift in purpose set the garment on a collision course for the next fifty years. Another moment of recognition came in the form of the Civil Rights movement of the 1960’s, where figureheads and protestors alike could be seen wearing denim dungarees. Denim Dudes reflects on the contrast to Hollywood’s adoption of the garment by stating that “while history likes to recount these figures in denim’s all-American tale, it’s not often that you hear about the freedom fighters who, in a large part, helped bring the look to the mainstream”. Referencing Caroline A. Jones, the article goes on to suggest that it was King’s march on Washington in August of 1963 that further bridged the gap between denim as workwear to everyday casual wear, inspiring future generations like hippies and beatniks to make it their own. But for King and other black activists, it was much more than just clothing. It was a statement. It was a chance to express just how little had changed since the days of slavery. During the next thirty years, dungarees continued to be adopted by various societal movements and sub-cultures which further cemented their place in the modern wardrobe and as a part of the street style uniform. One particularly noteworthy group of trend setters were those associated with a new and emerging genre of music known as ‘hip hop’. Born on the streets of New York City and later taking the USA by storm, dungarees became an integral part of hip hop’s vibe. The genre came to be characterized by oversized workwear and according to Complex, "some of the most ferocious rappers, from Tupac to DMX, gave overalls a harder edge by wearing them without a shirt on underneath or better yet, with one strap unbuckled”. But dungarees weren’t exclusive to hip hop, as Beyond Retro note that “the 90s wouldn’t be the 90s without a band in dungarees - pick a band and we guarantee there will be a time when they wore dungarees in joyful unison”. Referring to the likes of The Backstreet Boys N-Sync and TLC, dungarees were commonplace in the pop charts throughout the 1990’s, coinciding with the decade’s trend of baggy denim and oversized silhouettes. For their AW22 collection ‘Sequency’, Calik denim are able to offer a variety of fabrics which are ideal for dungarees and take into consideration the iconic milestones of the garment by calling on some of its most recognizable looks. For example, Denovated is a concept based on the principle of renewing and renovating 70s-80s denim looks in order to make them refreshed for a new era. Similarly, Calik’s D-Leisure fabrics pay homage to the loose straight fit of dungarees as well as the home comforts required for living in 2021. Providing superior softness, breathability and texture, D-Leisure also includes Tencel Lyocell and Tencel Modal fibers, proving sustainability and historical reference can go hand-in-hand. Lastly, the Blue-H concept is centered around the use of hemp in the raw materials portfolio, as a viable and sustainable alternative to traditional cotton. With more strength and durability than cotton, it’s hard to imagine a fabric more suitable to dungarees than Blue-H. You can find out more about these concepts and how they can be applied during the design and development process here.

On reflection, it’s easy to see why dungarees have become such an integral part of our society’s fabric during the last 140 years. From their workwear origins through to their revolutionary impact, dungarees transcend culture, society and race. Often seen in the shadow of the five pocket jean or trucker jacket, dungarees have definitely earned their place as an icon of Twentieth Century denim. Whether you’re wearing some heavily washed vintage dungarees, heritage inspired workwear overalls or baggy blue bib and braces, know that there’s much more than cotton woven into the fabric of your favorite garment.