Back in January, we took the opportunity to reflect on the turbulence of 2020. A momentous year that had all our heads spinning and reaching for our sweat pants (#comfort). 2020 was positively unprecedented for the fashion world and denim industry, forcing every one in the supply chain to adapt and overcome. But in looking forward to 2021, we identified some key over-arching themes that will be at play during the next twelve months. From continued developments in sustainable practice and digital break throughs to a heightened global consciousness and the impact of gaming on fashion, we’re confident that 2021 will keep us on our toes. We now find ourselves a quarter way through the year and for us, it felt like the right time to stop and take stock of this year’s trends so far. We’ve already highlighted the key continuing themes noted above, but what about lower level trends and movements we’ve seen on the streets, at (digital) fashion shows and on everyone’s favourite app (that’s Instagram, by the way)? While the following narrative won’t be a deep dive into every garment featured on the latest Prada runway or a shot by shot analysis of @thesartorialist’s feed, it’s going to highlight some key concepts and movements within 2021’s denim trends. Initially, it’s easy to get distracted by the surge in sweats and loungewear that we’ve seen in the last year - and that’s not doubt a continuing trend this year (more on this further down) - but denim is bouncing back stronger than ever in 2021. According to Sourcing Journal; “Denim was certainly not immune to the struggles that hit the apparel industry during the coronavirus pandemic. Sales in the sector fell approximately 19 percent during 2020…But the do-it-all, timeless fabric remains resilient, as jeans sales are expected to rise again with 13 percent growth in 2021”. What’s interesting about this year’s trends is that as a result of the pandemic, we’ve seen a significant shift in consumer behaviour and the retail landscape. 2020 forced us to step back, to reflect and to rationalize. Nowhere was this more apparent than in our wardrobes. While denim is undoubtedly timeless, reliable and a secure choice for many, the pandemic still pushed us to re-examine our purchasing habits, where we spend our hard-earned cash and what brands we support. A quick glance at Sourcing Journal’s review of key trends for the year ahead also supports this, from ‘Touch’ and ‘Conscious Consumption’ to ‘Hemp’ and ‘Modernity’ being key phrases. So let’s see how this shapes what trends we’re seeing right now.

Utilitarian & Multi Purpose

With shifts in thinking across the industry and a new found focus on sustainability, ethics and moral shopping, we’ve seen a surge in thrifted, secondhand, upcycled and vintage denim. From faded 90’s 501s to patchwork and hand repairs, this trend focuses on a classic straight or loose fitting jean with character. We’ve recently seen Levi’s Silver Tab and RED collections released and these core concepts re-visited for the new decade. With this look comes wear and tear too, with distressed denim having a moment once again. This has also lead to a ‘make do and mend’ philosophy taking hold, with both designers and consumers trying their hand at patchwork, repairing and customizing their denim in order to add character, prolong the life of a garment or to try a new hobby during national lockdowns. Take the work of Phil Leyesa for example - also known as @philllllthy on Instagram - who has taken the world of streetwear by storm through his customized denim creations and worn looking sneakers. Inherently, this trend also focuses on utilitarian and multi purpose garments which allow the wearer not only to have freedom of movement but fabric which will stand up to rugged wear. Take the Carhartt ‘double knee’ pants for example, an icon of true workwear and still favored on construction sites, but now a streetwear staple for their rugged, loose and hard wearing properties with brands like Aimé Leon Dore offering their own elevated interpretation

Modern & Clean

In an effort to feel cleansed, refreshed and revitalized, we’ve seen many brands offering a modern and clean denim collection for the consumer looking for inner-peace and serenity this season. These looks are primed by clean lines, angular patterns, bold stripes and classic cuts. Take Arket’s ‘Modern Mariniere’ collection which features soft neutrals, washed denims and coastal inspired hues for a crisp Spring vibe. Similarly, the brand’s patchwork denim is executed in a clean modern way that has more lineage to contemporary art than rugged workwear. Sticking with a modern aesthetic, the latest collaboration between Bianca Saunders and Wrangler - inspired by sculpture and the work of Jean Cocteau Saunders - sees the use of sublimation printing on core denim pieces for a crisp yet eye-catching modern spin on Wrangler’s iconic denim. A.P.C. also employed a textbook modern approach to their SS21 offering with dark indigo denims paired with eye catching floral, checked and striped prints. Another contemporary style to watch this season is the split-hem jean, which Lyst describes as one of the “hottest denim trends for spring” with celebs like Hailey Bieber wearing them recently.

Sustainable & Eco Conscious

With sustainability continuing to be a topic of conversation within the wider fashion and denim landscape, it’s not surprising that it’s reflected in this season’s trends. While there have been significant inroads to sustainability as a result of the pandemic, the wheels of environmental consciousness were turning well before 2020. But even in the first few months of 2021, we’ve seen entire collections with a sustainability focus from heavy hitters in the denim landscape. Take the Lee x H&M collection for example; an ambitious attempt to create a sustainable collection which channels Lee’s denim history and expertise with H&M’s global reach and power. Incorporating renewable practices and sustainable materials at every stage of the process, the pair should be applauded for their effort at communicating this message through informed product and a well crafted marketing campaign. Denim giants Levi’s have also been pushing their sustainability agenda via collaborations with Ganni and the Levi’s secondhand initiative. ‘Playful classics with a responsible twist’, the capsule collection with Ganni was developed using cottonized hemp, a fabric which uses 70% less water than conventional cotton denim. We’ve also seen developments in degradable stretch denim with CLOSED, Weekday utilizing a regenerative textile fiber Infinna, Mango releasing an upcycled accessories collection and numerous brands prioritizing the use of deadstock fabrics.

E-Denim & Dyepro

Calik Denim have also been continuing their sustainable efforts via their E-Denim and Dyepro initiatives. E-Denim - a circular based design process - uses Calik’s brand new yarn technology and results in a fiber which contains a significant amount of recycled content in the core yarn, as well as a more premium look for fabrics. Similarly, Dyepro is a new dyeing method developed by the mill which saves 100% of water used during the production process. No chemical waste occurs during dyeing and it enables a resource saving, allowing investment to be directed towards further environmentally focused product development. And while these processes may seem more relevant to those in the supply chain than the end- consumer, we should not be fooled that today’s denim customer is not interested in the specifics. According to Lyst (via Sourcing Journal), searches for jeans including sustainability related keywords have spiked 138 percent towards the beginning of the year. In addition, page views for recycled and organic denim have increased dramatically. From this it’s clear that the focus on natural and alternative fibers is not only within the industry itself, but filtering down to the consumer.

Conclusions

With searches for loungewear and sweat suits skyrocketing during mid-2020, the future looked bleak for denim. With everyone having to adapt to a new way of living - most likely from home - comfort and security were key themes for our wardrobes. But denim being the stalwart that it is, it didn’t take long for our favourite fabric to be back on the map. The beginnings of the new year and SS21 collections have shown the determination of denim; from relaxed utilitarian thrifted jeans and patchwork panels to modern shapes and deep indigos, denim was a core theme. While the above doesn’t aim to cover all trends of the season, it aims to introduce the reader to some key themes for the year ahead. But don’t worry, there’s more. Check back in May for a further trend driven update for 2021.