The S Word. Yes, you know the one. Not that one, the other one: Sustainability. You know, the word that every brand, company, and the client has dropped into the conversation claiming that they are sustainable or that they want to be sustainable. And it’s great that there’s a conversation around sustainability, but the term has become so overused that do we know what it means to be sustainable in the denim industry? And how do we know who are the authentic advocates of sustainable practice and who is greenwashing? Is sustainability a cultural wave that we’re jumping onto, or has there been a fundamental shift in our thinking which has caused us to re-evaluate every step of the supply chain? While this is a sizable topic, we’re going to scratch the surface and get you thinking about how sustainability is shaping the industry and whether it’s more than a buzz word or just a passing trend. 2020 has been unpredictable, to say the least. As we find ourselves in the middle of a global pandemic and facing a ‘new normal’, we’ve all become acutely aware of our immediate environment, as well as what’s outside our door. One of the most stark realizations in recent months has been the impact of Coronavirus on the natural world. With a decrease in pollution levels, cleaner air, and less traffic, COVID-19 has vividly demonstrated the impact of humankind on our planet. As issues like this gain traction and demand more media coverage, the topic of sustainability will continue to become more relevant. Sourcing Journal recognizes this and states in their Sustainability 2020 report that “in 2020, fashion is facing a growing call for sustainability and systematic change from consumers and stakeholders”. In addition, sustainability in fashion is even on the agenda of the United Nations and a recent topic of discussion with the Conscious Fashion Campaign and Messe Frankfurt. This is hardly surprising given the negative impact on the environment that the fashion world has had in recent decades. Of course, the UN is no stranger to sustainability and its Sustainable Development Goals have been a driving force on the global stage. The SDGs were set out by the UN’s General Assembly in 2015, with a target of 2030. They intend to be a “blueprint to achieve a better and more sustainable future for all” and consist of 17 interlinked goals which include climate action, industry, innovation and infrastructure, responsible consumption and production, as well as partnerships for the goals. While these goals might seen broad and strategic, there is a direct impact on the denim world. For example, Calik Denim have designed ‘smart targets’ in their latest Sustainability Report - which are aligned to the SDGs - in order to guide the company in building a sustainable business model for the future. Similarly, Murtaza Ahmed, Director of denim mill Artistic Milliners, was recently chosen as 'Sustainable Development Goal Pioneer' of the United Nations Global Compact for his work in the area. While changes in the natural environment have been starkly broadcast during the last few months, the SDGs demonstrate a deeper shift in focus which has occurred during the last fifteen years. We’ve seen a heightened environmental awareness within the population and the birth of a new consumer, one which is more educated, more diligent, and more conscious of the world around them. This change in consumer behavior has given rise to sustainability being a hot topic in the denim industry, to the point where any brand has to at least appear to be playing their part. Ani Wells confirms this and states that “with current events in 2020, consumers expect brands to have a solid stance on environmental and social issues. It’s not an option anymore”. Liz Warren also acknowledges this; “if 2019 had one common theme, it would be sustainability. The movement set the tone for everything from farming techniques to consumer behavior, and generated a number of trends in the process”. Interestingly, this latter statement suggests that sustainability is far greater than an isolated trend, but an over-arching strategic direction for the industry (and the world) which in fact spawns smaller trends within denim and fashion. These trends have been driven by both brand and consumer alike - take re-pair, re-purpose, and re-create for example. While brands have had their own initiatives in this area, it is a trend that has also been driven by consumer craft. Repairing old jeans and repurposing vintage denim fabrics has seen a monumental rise during our months of quarantine, with people staying at home and re-discovering skills or trying a new hobby. In addition, with unemployment on the rise due to the impact of COVID-19, consumers are truly subscribing to ‘make do and mend’, and purchasing a new pair of jeans is far down the agenda of priorities. Fashion.ie supports this and note upcycling as one of five eco-friendly fashion trends of 2020. In addition, they see Econyl, vegan leather, faux fur, and rental as this year’s micro-trends stemming from sustainability. Brands like Nudie Jeans have also built their USP on the approach of repair before replace. Offering free repairs on all their jeans no matter when / where they were purchased, the brand’s repair shops and partners conduct expert repairs to prolong the life of the customer’s favorite pair of Grim Tims or Steady Eddies. Other brands in the denim industry have followed suit as well, unsurprisingly. From big to small businesses, we’ve witnessed a whole host of sustainability initiatives in the last twelve months alone, including Wrangler’s Indigood initiative, Levi’s recycled and rental only collection with Ganni, fashion giant H&M declaring they won’t source any ‘conventional’ cotton for future products and Lee’s ‘Back to Nature’ biodegradable jeans. There has also been significant technological developments that rapidly reduce water consumption, remove the use of chemicals, replace traditional washes with laser technology, and sustainable alternatives to cotton-like hemp. Building on this momentum and taking the question of sustainability seriously, Calik denim recently published its second Sustainability Report. According to CEO Faith Dogan, “by integrating sustainability into our business model, we aim to turn these risks into opportunities, manage the effects of denim on life, and be a company that can generate positive values for and provide benefits to the stakeholders”. As if it needed further confirmation, it’s clear that to Calik Denim, sustainability is far more than a passing trend or series of micro-trends, it’s a principle by which to operate and live by. Naming their strategy ‘Passion for Denim, Passion for Life’, Calik’s initiatives intend to not only address the risks and impact of denim production on our natural world but to turn the solutions to these problems into positive, proactive and encouraging initiatives. The overarching summary and highlights included above are not meant to be all-encompassing or a representation of the industry in its entirety, but some ‘food for thought’ and talking points to provide the further conversation. With the scale of sustainability, it’s near impossible to summarize where we are in just a few words. But what we can conclude, is that there is hope. Sustainability has touched all facets of the denim industry and fashion world, causing brands to change, mills to adapt and consumers to question. With the support of organizations like the UN, it would be an insult to call sustainability a ‘trend'. It’s more than that, it’s a principle by which we all need to live by and it’s an approach we can all adopt, no matter how big or small. With such significant shifts in the market - be it through technological advancement, transparency in the process, or on-going attempts at circularity - in just a few short years, sustainability is much more than a buzz word, but a wave for real-world change.