Since the moment jeans became popular, cotton and a pair of jeans have been inextricably connected. Jeans were initially made from a 100% cotton fabric, which is a tradition that continues today. Of course, there are exceptions to this rule and with the advent of stretch denim, elastane is now a common ingredient in denim. Even though denim and cotton seem to be a perfect marriage, it’s a relationship that continues to develop, even now. Cotton types have evolved over the years through breeding programs in order to perfect its characteristics and quality. In recent years for example, we’ve witnessed the introduction of recycled cotton and organic cotton, which continue to grow in popularity. Next to this, as an industry, we’re now examining entire alternatives to cotton, with sustainability and environmental impact driving the agenda. But why does the denim industry need an alternative to the versatile fiber that is cotton? If it works, why do we need to change it or replace it?

Why Does Cotton Need Alternatives?

The versatility of cotton is enormous and almost every part of the plant can be processed into many different substances including; bank notes, margarine, oil and most importantly for us, denim! The characteristics of cotton and the purpose of jeans align seamlessly, so it’s no wonder why the fiber became so popular within the industry. Typical characteristics of jeans like comfort and durability are all due to the properties of cotton. Jeans made from cotton possess unique properties and provide the ultimate marriage of longevity and strength. The moment our industry started to look for alternatives to conventional cotton coincides with the rise of the ‘sustainability’ on our agendas. Not only within the garment and fashion world, but further afield. We have now started to proactively question the materials and processes which we have been using for years, even decades, and looking for less harmful alternatives in order to protect our only planet. And since cotton is such a huge industry with a far-reaching impact - some of it negative - it made sense to start here. Levi’s has made tremendous progress in reducing the harmful impact of the life cycle of a pair of jeans, and they manage to reduce the water consumption of one pair of 501’s to just 3781 liters. Just 3781 liters of water are consumed by one pair of jeans, of which 2565 liters (68%) are used to grow the cotton fiber. According to the Impact Institute, around 2 billion jeans are sold per year, meaning that you don’t have to be a mathematician to see that the cotton production for the denim industry requires a sea of water. Next to its enormous thirst, cotton is very pesticide-intensive as well, resulting in a high environmental cost. In recent years, the denim supply chain has made fantastic developments and innovations focused on reducing its harmful impact on our planet. And cotton was a key place to start. With the advent of recycled and organic cotton, brands now have more responsible alternatives to conventional cotton. This includes recycled and organic cotton, but also whole alternatives to cotton, like Hemp. While some of these alternatives are still in their infancy and efficiencies are still being made, it marks the dawn of a new year and a purposeful step away from denim production practices of the 90’s and 00’s.

Hemp as an Alternative to Cotton

Hemp is a natural crop that has been cultivated for thousands of years... According to the Green Market Report, Hemp is one of the fastest-growing plants in the world and it only takes 3 - 4 months to reach maturity, in contrast to 5,5 - 6,5 month for cotton. Growing Hemp requires almost half the amount of water compared to cotton, and it produces approximately 220% more fibers than cotton. And because hemp is a self-sustaining plant, there’s no need for pesticides to protect the plant. Moreover, hemp’s roots are beneficial to the soil as they protect it from toxins. The moment hemp is woven into a fabric, it results in a strong and durable handle, a fabric which is often referred to as a premium fabric. Compared to a cotton fabric, hemp fabrics are very breathable, which is perfect for hot climates. But similarly to cotton, hemp fabrics get softer with each wash, but the process is slower, meaning that it retains a lot of its durability and strength for longer. In conclusion, hemp is stronger than cotton and has a far less harmful impact on our environment. With all these benefits, why hasn't hemp been able to knock cotton off the throne? Firstly, it’s only recently that the ban on hemp cultivation has been lifted in the US and in addition, because hemp is (currently) more expensive to produce than cotton, there is still a way to go. But, the biggest obstacle for hemp to become more and more popular in the (denim) industry is its texture. 100% hemp fabrics tend to be very scratchy with a coarse texture and doesn’t come close to the softness or comfort of cotton fabrics, which is one of the things we love most about our jeans! But, all the (sustainable) benefits of hemp can’t be ignored and is deserving of more research. More manufacturers and brands are trying to push their product to the next level of sustainability, and hemp is potentially a very successful way of doing this while addressing sustainability agendas and customer desires. For their SS22 collection, Calik Denim continues to go all in on sustainability, with Blue H, one of their concepts which is committed to utilizing hemp. With the rising demand for hemp fabrics, Blue H is Calik Denim’s answer. The concept utilizes a variety of fabrics, that have an appearance similar to cotton, but more importantly feel almost indistinguishable from cotton, making a huge step forward into a furthered integration of hemp into the denim industry. Calik Denim’s Blue H concept goes some way to providing a solution to one of the biggest obstacles for hemp – its scratchy and coarse texture. By blending hemp fibers with cotton fibers, a beautiful, durable, breathable and comfortable denim fabric is produced, saving dramatically on water and pesticides – the best of both worlds.