The traditional fashion industry is a polluted industry. It’s no secret. There are a lot of resources involved and approximately 30% of all garments produced will never be worn. One of the items which have the most impact on our planet, also happens to be the most popular; a pair of jeans. Making just a single pair of jeans requires a large consumption of water, energy as well as the use of chemicals. Luckily, in the last few years, the denim industry has undergone a period of change, for the better. While there is still a long way to go, it’s important to acknowledge the positive steps that the supply chain has taken. The industry stood up in unity and invested in improving production processes in order to harm our planet less. Compared to a decade ago, this was a revolutionary step to take. The industry has set out clear intentions to be more sustainable, more responsible and more human. While the demand for denim continues to grow and shows no signs of slowing, it’s even more important that we work towards circularity. But exactly what does this mean in reality? And how close are we? The first reference of a Circular Economy isn’t as new as you might expect. Although the term has become somewhat of a buzz word in recent years, the first time the idea was brought to our attention was in 1966 by Kenneth Boulding. In the decades that followed, the philosophy has been refined into a working system which can be applied to a diverse range of industries. The term ‘Circular Economy’ can be defined in a hundred different ways, but in essence, it comes down to the following according to the Ellen Macarthur Foundation: ‘A circular economy is based on the principles of designing out waste and pollution, keeping products and materials in use, and regenerating natural systems.’ A Circular Economy goes beyond making existing production processes more sustainable and recycling old products. A Circular Economy is all-embracing and starts at the design table. It has closed loops, meaning that worn-out materials will be reused instead of being considered as waste. Simply put, a circular economy is focused on: Reduce the use of raw materials, Re-use products, and components, and Recycle raw materials. Within a Circular Economy, every section has been designed in order to make a products’ footprint as harmless to the environment as possible. True circularity goes further than decreasing the impact and considers how design, manufacturing, and recycling can play a role in circularity and even benefit the environment. Circular Denim might sound like a fairytale in a far off world, especially when we look at the mass-production methods of the 1990s. There is no denying that this set the pace for the fast-fashion world we know today and the throwaway culture which has become associated with it. But, with a more mindful consumer and increased awareness of environmental issues, the industry has (and continues) to change its mindset. Arguably this is the most important step in changing practice, as the industry has acknowledged what is wrong. The fabric of which a pair of jeans are made is key for a circular pair of jeans. Bio cotton or recycled cotton obviously harms our planet to a lesser extent, but that’s not all. With stretch denim decreasing in popularity and 100% cotton fabrics being favored, another opportunity for circular denim is presented. Why? Because mixed-material fabrics (like stretch denim which is made from cotton and elastane) are difficult to recycle and often end up on landfills. 100% cotton fabrics on the other hand are less harmful to produce and are easier to recycle once the jeans are worn-out. Another important factor which will determine the recyclability of a fabric is the quality. Where low quality materials encourage consumers to disposal old pairs of jeans, high-quality materials often live longer, because consumer believe it makes sense to recycle the jeans! One trend in denim which is already close to circular denim is that of raw denim. In contrast to many jeans, ‘raw’ jeans are made of 100% cotton and aren’t pre-washed or pre-treated with chemicals. It is denim in its purest form and is well known for its high quality and durability. In addition, the concept and culture around raw denim encourage the wearer not to wash their jeans as frequently in order to produce unique fades and wear patterns which reflect the wearer’s habits. So by skipping the pre-wash as well as encouraging less washing post-purchase by the consumer, dramatically less water is required. But, if you aren’t a raw denim head, and still want to wear a fresh pair of jeans, Calik Denim’s new sustainability-driven initiatives - Washpro technology and Functionage fabrics - might be the solution. The mill recently announced that their fabrics for the Fall/Winter 2021 collection will have antimicrobial components and require fewer washes on the consumer’s end. The freshness feature and self-cleaning property of the fabric will make a pair of jeans stay fresh for a longer period of time and contributes to reduce microfiber pollution in the oceans since it reduces the number of home laundries needed. Accompanying this is a similar movement focused on quality and lengthening the life span of garment - upcycling. We’ve seen a surge in the re-use of existing fabrics and existing garments, giving them a new life and purpose. Brands like Atelier & Repairs offer a line of customized vintage Levi's 501 jeans - each pair given its own unique character and personality by the addition of embroidery and patches. Key to achieving a circular denim supply chain undoubtedly involves each link in the chain contributing to the overall goal, but it is crucial that this work starts at the beginning and sets the stage for the rest of the jeans journey. The initial responsibility lies at the design table with the selection of cotton, fabric, fixtures and fittings. Even the style of the jean - is the cut going to be classic, timeless and long-lasting? Or is it a reaction to a passing trend? The thinking which needs to take place at the design table has to be focused on jeans being manufactured from existing materials, not new materials. We have to use what we already have - from deadstock fabrics to surplus fittings. Brands and buyers also need to take responsibility, with quantities being examined at wholesale and retail. The key to all these small successes is collaboration and communication. We must take a holistic view at the supply chain and take responsibility for it as a whole, not just the element we are directly responsible for. The denim industry is a relatively small world and is often referred to as a family of like-minded individuals - it is this gift that we must utilise in order to achieve circularity. In addition, we have to lead the market and the new mindful consumer. We have to share the huge amount of knowledge that we collectively possess in order to educate the consumer by demonstrating transparency and committed values as an industry. We have to take the opportunity presented to us by the current focus on sustainability and environmental impact, making sure it is more than a passing trend, but a set of values which is here to stay.