When Burç Akyol initially applied for a spot on the Paris Fashion Week women’s schedule last year, he was turned down by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, French fashion’s governing body. It turned out to be a blessing in disguise for the designer, who instead is making his debut on the official menswear calendar this season, fresh off reaching the finals of the LVMH Prize for Young Designers with his genderless label. While Akyol left the ceremony empty-handed, he has gained visibility and forged precious relationships as he prepares to transition his business from a direct-to-consumer operation to a wholesale model, with plans to work with between five and seven retailers initially for the spring 2024 season. Akyol, who was born in France of Turkish parents, discovered fashion via his father, a tailor. He gave up a budding acting career to enroll at the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and launched his label in 2019, following stints at Christian Dior, Balenciaga and Esteban Cortázar.